Product Review: Cheap-Ass Spray Primers

It’s no secret that wargaming is an expensive hobby for most people, so we’ll continue to review budget-conscious alternatives for gamers and hobbyists.

One major budget killer for large projects is primer. Primer, (also known as that one part of your hobby that forces you outdoors,) is an absolute necessity when painting acrylic paints over plastic or metal surfaces. Why? Because metal and plastic are smooth, water-resistant surfaces that not only repels paint, but paint that does dry on these materials will not adhere and slide off your model like those dried scrambled-egg flakes that collect around the edge of your non-stick frying pan.

 

Citadel Primer

The first primer we’ll look at is the one we’re all most familiar with, because it was pushed on us when we bought our first blister pack of miniatures. This is Citadel brand spray primer. I only included on this list to give a sense of comparison.

With an average price of over $15.00 per can, this is by far the most expensive hobby primer you can readily buy. But is it worth that hefty price tag?

Yes and no. The first thing you should know is that Citadel Primer is simply enamel paint with a little solvent, like most spray primers. The real difference is that the pigment strength is extremely high, meaning that with just a couple of passes you can completely cover your model, without any bare material showing through. It also tends to spray “lightly” meaning it sprays a fine mist instead of a bold spray. This is really good for painting miniature figures, where you don’t want paint to build up in repeated passes, possibly obscuring detail.

But when you’re painting something like a Realm Of Battle board set, with a lot of deep textures or custom made terrain features, you can easily burn through a half-dozen cans of this stuff, setting you back a large chunk of money. Also, you’re not likely to find this for sale in a retail location outside your Friendly Local Gaming Store.  For terrain making, Citadel sprays are not ideal at all. Keep it on your shelf for your figures.

Tamya Fine Surface Primer

Tamya primers are formulated for model builders and professional hobbyists. It’s a synthetic lacquer that dries with a very smooth finish, sometimes too smooth if you’re not using an airbrush to apply your base colors. It also comes in a whopping two color choices, grey and white. Tamya primer is easy to find general hobby shops that sell plastic models and RC toys. As far  as price goes, it can vary greatly between $5.00 to $12.00 a can, depending on where you buy it and what size can you get. Because of the super-smooth finish, the lack of black, and steep price-tag, I tend to keep this on the shelf only for special purposes, such as priming materials that other primers have a hard time sticking to, but even then I prefer to use the next brand on our list…

 

Rustoleum Primer

Now we’re getting away from the specialized hobby paints and into the realm of hardware store primers. Rustoleum Auto Primer is my go-to primer for large projects with a combination of different materials. There is very little that Rustoleum won’t adhere to, and the solvents tend to create great bonds, even with Urethane resin, which can be notoriously hard to find a good primer for. The mixture is a little on the thick side, but only slightly. For the most part, Rustoleum is good for just about any project and runs between $5.00 – $7.00 a can. It comes in several different formulas and colors, but Auto Primer has the best adhesion and only comes in brown and dark grey. I use this stuff when all else fails.

 

Krylon Fusion

Krylon paints are sold just about everywhere, and because of this we’ve made quite a few 2:00 AM runs to Wal-Mart to pick up a few cans, ignoring the funny glances from the cashiers. A relatively recent addition to Krylon’s line is Fusion, which is advertised to bond easily with most plastics. While I rarely encounter problems using other spray enamel primers, this could potentially be a benefit,  as sometimes spray paints can compatibility issues with different plastics, either not bonding well or taking an extremely long time to set.

Fusion paints run between $5.00 – $7.00 and what really makes them a good choice is they have a special line just for camouflage, which means it’s super flat. This is by far the flattest toned spray-enamel around. This is great for just about everything hobby related, because flatter base colors means better paint adhesion, and more realistic shadows in your finished work. I rate Krylon highly because it’s cost-effective, has high-quality coverage that works great for miniature figures, plastic models and mixed-material terrain pieces.

Plus, if you have any leftover, you can always spray paint your pickup truck camouflage so that the.. er, deer can’t see it.

 

The Rest

If you’re really in a bind, and you’re not priming your Crystal Brush entry piece, there are cheaper spray paints out there which will still do the job. In most hardware sections you can find a large selection of generic, store-brand paints, most between $1.00 – $2.00.

So what’s wrong with these bargain paints? It depends on the store, but sometimes these paints tend to be a bit weak in pigment, taking many coats to get good coverage. For example, you might need to use two cans instead of one half a can to completely cover a 2′x2′ terrain board. But that still comes out to a lower price, so if getting the most paint for your money is your concern, there’s no shame in buying the cheap stuff. Most brands tend to bond well to most surfaces, including resin, metal and plastic, but always, always test out a primer you’ve never used before, some brands don’t stick well to anything, others work as good as any more expensive spray enamels on the same shelf. I recommend Generic Rust Primers, which are very close to the name brands in quality but cost no more than about $2.50.

 

Since this is not a specific review of any one product over another, I have to give a score to primers in general, which for being so important to my work over the years, have earned: 4 Fire flowers and 2 Screaming Macaulay Carson Culkins.

Product Review: Craft Paints

Today we’re going to talk a little about craft paints. Craft paints are those bottles of inexpensive liquid acrylic paints that you find on racks at craft stores, hardware stores, and even Wal Mart. Most miniature wargamers will pass these by with a turned up nose, because lets face it, the typical consumer of these paints would seem to be grade schoolers who need to paint their macaroni art, or grandmothers making signs for their front door like: “Granny’s Quilting Headquarters!”

Typical craft paint consumers hard at work on their projects.

So in a hobby where we routinely pay $3.00 – $5.00 for the equivalent of a thimble full of color, is there any room for a 2 oz bottle of 89 cent paint? Surprisingly, yes. Especially when you don’t want to order a whole case of Snakebite Leather to basecoat your desert themed gaming table.

First, a very quick explanation of what goes into an average bottle of liquid acrylic paint:  Pigment powder/liquid and an emulsion fluid. Those are your primary ingredients,  and many paint brands even share the same basic pigments. The major differences come from the ratio of pigment to emulsion, and how fine the pigment is ground.  At the upper end of the spectrum, you have artist’s acrylics, which come in tiny tubes that cost more than a steak dinner at a really nice restaurant. Just below that, you have student and liquid acrylics, which includes those little poorly-sealed, thimble-sized bottles of  paint that we all know and love. (really just artist acrylics well thinned and blended.)  And then further down you have “craft paints.”

Craft paints do not generally have the same pigment strength as hobby and artist paints, this means that you will encounter streaking and difficulty drybrushing with some colors, but they are still usable for many applications, and can be made to work very well once you get used to their strengths and weaknesses.

Here are my reviews of each popular brand of craft paint, starting with the best.

  • Delta Ceramcoat. This is the most expensive of the craft paints, ranging from $1.00 to $2.00 per bottle, and are also the closest you’ll find to our regular hobby paints as far as pigment strength and smoothness. Delta paints are used by many professional miniature painters in conjunction with the “big three” brands because of the increased range of colors they provide, such as a large variety of off-whites, beige and flesh tones. Delta paint bottles are marked Opaque, Semi- Opaque, and “Transparent.” This is not so much a feature as just blunt honesty about the nature of paint in general; since some colors just cover better than others, as anyone who’s ever tried to paint large areas of yellow will attest to. When thinned with water and/or alcohol and sprayed from an airbrush, Delta colors have an extremely matt finish, perfect for basecoats on terrain and models. Delta also sells a good selection of brush-on varnishes and a pure emulsion-like product called “Floating Medium” which I’ll probably review independently in a later article. UPDATE: The popular craft store chain Micheal’s no longer sells Delta Acrylics, they seem to have replaced the Delta racks with Martha Stewart paints, which appear to be glossy, sparkly and expensive enamels. Joann’s Fabric stores still carry Delta, but their selection seems much more limited.

 

  • Americana. I’m putting Americana next on the list because I feel their pigments, while a little weaker than Delta, are pretty decent and they have a great selection of rich, smooth earth tones. Americana paints are usually a little cheaper than Delta, running around a dollar a bottle. Both of these factors make Americana great for starting a large terrain project or painting a backdrop. But beware, thinning these paints for airbrushing has had unpredictable results for me, including pigment separation.

 

  • FolkArt. Made by Plaid, Folk Art I would rank close to or just below Americana,  primarily because of their metallic color range and a few very handy neutral colors. Although their paints  suffer a little in the pigment strength department, and often have a goopy “toothpaste” consistency,  most of the metallic paints are fairly strong, with the exception of Silver perhaps, but since they have different metallic tones in between gold and bronze and silver, they remain in close reach of my bench. FolkArt is usually about the same price as Americana.

 

 

  • Apple Barrel, also by Plaid, suffers the same pigment strength problems of FolkArt, but doesn’t have a very unique color range that would set it apart, so it ranks low on my list. One positive note, is that you can find Apple Barrel in many different kinds of stores, so if you need a bottle of paint in a hurry, you probably don’t have to go far, but expect the price to be marked way up at non-craft store locations.

 

 

  • Craft Smart. Even with an average price tag of less than a dollar a bottle, about the only redeeming quality of this paint is that, to the best of my knowledge, it is not highly radioactive. I have a few bottles of this stuff which I bought in desperation at 2:00 AM from Wal Mart to try to finish some Ork huts. This stuff is like trying to paint with greasy pudding. It’s not just the pigment strength that’s bad, it’s the color tones and temperatures. If you do manage to get an even coat applied, it makes your model look dull and muddy. Avoid at all costs and mock mercilessly when spotted.

 

Those are the major craft paint brands that I have personal experience with.  While I like to use craft paints for base colors on many of my pieces, I still fall back to other brands when I need reliable, powerful pigments, such as Vallejo when doing fine detail work, or Tamiya acrylics when painting industrial machinery.

Delta and Americana are the clear winners of this contest, with a combined score of 6 antelopes out of a possible 7.5

 

 

If any readers have their own stories or opinions, please share them here!

 

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Product Review: The Five Dollar Airbrush

Could a $5.00 airbrush actually be any good for anything? I asked this question as I passed the bargain bin at my local Ace hardware and saw this lil’ fella peeking out from between the packs of cable ties yellowed with age and tape measures of dubious accuracy.

Normally I would chuckle my snobbish chuckle and move along, but there were a couple factors that influenced my decision to pick up this thing, first of all my double action Paasche which I’ve owned and used for over 15 years finally died due to complications from being old as dirt, and I had an Ace coupon for exactly $5.00, essentially providing me with a free opportunity to actually own… one of these things.

And what is this thing? As far as I can tell, this is basically a knock-off of the Badger 250-4 “mini spray gun” with a few cheaper components. It is an external mix, siphon feed, single action “airbrush,” meaning that in theory, you press the button and paint sprays out, with very little control over anything past that.

I took it home and opened it up. I was first impressed at the solid, single piece metal construction of the body/lid cap, then repulsed by the all-plastic air valve stem and assembly. I had a feeling I wouldn’t be passing this down to my grandchildren. But does it even work?

I replaced the threaded cap on the clear hose with one that would fit my compressor in a very simple operation of hacking the old one off, and sticking the new piece on. I dilluted a little Delta black with alcohol and filled the jar, turned on my compressor. There was air leaking out from under the button, but when I pushed the button, a healthy spray of paint wooshed out of the nozzle, allowing me to fully base-coat a few models before I ran out of paint.

The spray is not very fine, which may have more to do with the viscosity than the airbrush, and its only real setting is “big and lots.” But after fiddling with the extremely sensitive air and paint nozzles a little I managed to get a slightly finer stream and use much less paint. Tip: The paint nozzle needs to be waaaaay up in the air stream in order to spray properly.

Cleaning was a snap, it only has one tube that paint travels up, and the jar. I did open up the air valve to see how it worked; which was equally simple, just a plastic cylinder with a rubber washer. In fact, this thing is so simple I can’t imagine it not working, if it were any simpler it would just be two straws and a cup.

So what is it good for? I’m currently using it for basecoating models, spraying even coats of color on large areas, and something like this is absolutely essential for working base colors into piles of rubble and heavy texture on scenery.  It also sprays thicker fluids fairly easily.

To Long; Didn’t Read Summary: I would recommend this as a backup airbrush, or more of a spray-can substitute. You’ll probably have a hard time painting that wolf mural on your van, but it would be just fine for light dusting effects and quick base coats.

Pros: So simple it has to work, dirt cheap if you can find it in the sale bin,  easy to clean.

Cons: Plastic internal parts limit its lifespan. Upwards of $20.00 if it’s not in the sales bin. This is as much of an airbrush as a riding mower is to a sports car.

 

My rating: 

Three blenders and one jumping chicken.

 

Product Review: The Chopper II

In the course of my adventures in terrain making I’ve acquired a great many tools with various levels of usefulness. But once in a while a tool comes along that really deserves some special mention.

This is The Chopper II, the heavy-duty sequel to a relatively simple device made by Northwest Short Line, or NWSL for short. The Choppers are a line of hobby tools that are quite simply a razor blade attached to a handle with a hinge, designed for cutting strips of material. It sounds so simplistic that I passed it over for a very long time, unable to justify the $45.00 USD price in my head.

But eventually I finally gave in, my hands cramping from several days straight of scratchbuilding, and brought this baby home from my favorite hobby shop in town. My first impression was pleasantly surprised at the durability and stability of the base and handle assembly. The handle slides up and down with just the right amount of resistance so that you can leave it at any position, and has absolutely no give to either side, even while cutting hard materials.

I immediately put this thing to work, cutting plastic tubes to use as shingles on a house. The adjustable guides on the side allow you to cut the exact same sized pieces over and over, up to about 2 1/2″ in length. This feature alone really changed the way I worked, making it much less time consuming and tedious to cut rivets from styrene rods, or to cut balsa wood for roof beams, Etc. There is also less tendency for tiny plastic pieces to go flying across the room when cut, making it easier to gather your materials after cutting. Another very useful feature is the fact that it uses ordinary straight razor blades, the kind you can get almost anywhere.

Shingles, finished within minutes instead of hours.

While it’s hard to criticize such a handy, simple device, The Chopper II does have some negative points that any fair review must cover. First, it comes with two cutting guides that can be fastened into place near the razor to aid in cutting angles. I said they “aid” you, but they don’t provide any kind of precision method for getting the same angle every time. This could have been resolved by adding a set of thumbscrews and a secondary set of guides for the front of the cutting mat.

Also, the limited size of cuts may detract some hobbyists that work on larger scales, but NWSL does sell the Chopper III, which appears to be a larger system, and The Duplicator, which is designed for sheet materials.

On harder materials the razor blade does tend to deflect at times, especially if it’s getting dull. NWSL does give warning about this in the instruction manual, and I found that by cutting slowly, or making multiple cuts from both sides, I could minimize this effect.

Looking online, prices range from about $34.00 to $45.00 USD, plus shipping. This is not a cheap tool and probably not worth the investment for a casual hobbyist who only does an occasional scratchbuilding project.

Summary: Definitely worthwhile for the professional, great time saver. I always keep it nearby. Never get your finger too close to the blade, yikes this thing is scary.

Pros: Really lets you breeze through precision cutting jobs, very sturdy, smooth action and easy to maintain.

Cons: Size limitations on what you can cut. Somewhat pricey.

My rating:

4 pirate skulls, one happy santa, one submarine.

 

UPDATE: While writing this, I noticed that Micromark was no longer selling the Chopper II, saying it had been discontinued, but I don’t see any news about it on NWSL’s site. Maybe they’re releasing another sequel? “The Chopper IV, The Choppening”

UPDATE AGAIN: NWSL is accusing Micromark of selling pirated Choppers. I guess you should “chop” elsewhere! HAHA get it? see what I did there? Oooh man, I’m genius.